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Fake transfer alerts: how to confirm a payment before goods leave the shop

A customer picks ₦85,000 of goods, makes a transfer, and holds up their phone: "Successful." Your attendant sees the green tick, packs the goods, and the customer leaves. That evening the bank app shows nothing. It never will. Fake transfers work because shops confirm payment by looking at the customer's phone. The whole defence is one rule, applied every time, by everyone. The rule Goods leave when the money is in your account, as seen on your own bank app. Nothing else counts. Not a screenshot. Not a receipt on the customer's phone. Not an SMS. Not "check your alert, it has entered." Why the usual proof isn't proof The customer's success screen. It shows that their app displayed a message. Some are edited images. Some come from apps built to imitate a bank's screen. And some are real: the bank accepted the instruction, but the transfer later failed or was reversed. A forwarded receipt or screenshot. Images are easy to alter. A receipt is a picture of a claim. An SMS alert. Text messages can be sent to look as though they came from a bank. An SMS is a notification, and it isn't your account balance. "I've been debited." This can be true and still not be your problem to solve. A debit on their side with no credit on yours is between the customer and their bank. Until the money arrives, you haven't been paid. What does count Open your own banking app, or your business account's app, and look at the transaction list. You should see: a new credit, for the right amount the sender's name matching the person paying, or the name they gave you your balance higher than before by that amount If your POS provider or bank gives you a merchant app that shows incoming transfers as they land, that is the same thing and usually faster. Checking takes under a minute. Any customer who objects to waiting a minute while you confirm an ₦85,000 payment is telling you something. Set the shop up for it The rule fails in practice when the person at the counter has no way to check. Fix that before you need it. One account for the shop. Print the account name and number and fix it to the counter. Customers pay only into that. Never into a staff member's personal account, for any reason. Decide who confirms. Either the business phone stays in the shop with the bank app on it, or staff send you the amount and sender's name and you confirm from wherever you are. Reply with one word, so there's no confusion: "Confirmed." Give staff the words. Most attendants release goods because refusing feels rude. Give them a line they can say without embarrassment: "Our policy is that we confirm on the shop's app before we release. It takes a minute. Please bear with me." A sign at the counter saying the same thing helps, because then it's the shop's rule and not the attendant's suspicion. Write the sender's name on the receipt. When you confirm, note on the receipt and in the daily sales record book that payment was by transfer and who from, as it appears in your app. When the payment is "pending" Networks do fail, and honest customers do get debited without the money arriving. You still can't release goods on a promise. Offer choices that don't put your stock at risk: Wait a few minutes and check again. Pay another way: cash, or card on the POS. Leave the goods, kept aside with their name on them, and collect when it lands. For someone you know well, treat it as a credit sale, written in the debtors book under your normal limit. That's then your decision as the owner, not the attendant's. If the money arrives later, call them. If it's reversed back to them, nobody has lost anything. At the end of the day Every transfer line in the sales book should have a matching credit in the bank app, and the day's transfer total should equal the total of those credits. This is part of closing the day. If a line has no credit, you find out that night, while the staff remember who the customer was and what they bought. If it has already happened Collect what you have: the date and time, the amount, what was taken, any name or phone number, and CCTV footage if you have it. Report it to your bank and to the police. Then be honest with yourself about how it got through. In nearly every case, someone looked at a phone that wasn't the shop's. Don't make your staff pay for it out of their wages on your own decision. The law restricts deductions for losses, as explained in how to stop staff stealing from your shop. Fix the routine and train it. One more thing to say out loud to your team: the rule protects them too. An attendant who always confirms on the shop's app can never be accused of having waved a friend through.

By Tabs Team · Oct 6, 2026

  • How to get a barcode for your products in Nigeria

    Before you pay anyone for barcodes, work out which of three situations you are in. Two of them don't need a registered barcode at all, and a lot of small businesses pay for one they didn't need. Do you actually need one? You run a shop and sell other companies' products. You don't need to buy barcodes. The tin of milk, the bottle of lotion and the pack of noodles already carry the manufacturer's barcode. If you use a scanner, you scan the code that's printed on the pack. You make or repackage goods and sell them only in your own shop. Think of goods such as rice you bag yourself, your own zobo, or loose items sold by weight. You can use internal codes. These are numbers you make up, print as barcode labels and stick on. They work perfectly inside your own shop and cost nothing to create. They mean nothing anywhere else. You make a product and want other retailers to stock it. Now you need a registered barcode. Supermarkets and distributors generally expect each product to carry a globally unique number, so that it can't clash with another supplier's product at their till. That number comes from GS1. Most of this guide is about the third case. What GS1 is GS1 is the international body behind the barcode numbers on retail products. Each country has a member organisation that issues numbers to local companies. In Nigeria, GS1 Nigeria publishes its registration process and fees at gs1ng.org. What you get from GS1 is not the black-and-white stripes. It is a set of numbers, called GTINs, registered to your company. The stripes are only a way of printing a number so that a scanner can read it. How registration works The details below are from GS1 Nigeria's barcode and membership pages as they stood on 6 October 2026. Fees and steps change, so confirm on its site before paying anything. Who can apply. GS1 Nigeria says only brand owners can apply for barcode numbers. If you sell under your own brand name, that's you. If someone else owns the brand, they apply. How many you need. Every variation of a product needs its own number. A drink in 35cl and 50cl bottles is two. The same biscuit in three flavours is three. A carton of twelve that is scanned as a carton is another one. Count carefully before you apply, because the fee depends on the band. Documents. GS1 Nigeria's membership FAQ lists a CAC certificate, a utility bill, its signed membership document and proof of payment. Process. On its website, choose to request a barcode, select manufacturer sign up, and complete the registration forms. GS1 Nigeria says registration usually takes two to three working days after the forms, documents and payment are in. Fees. The scale of fees listed on that date was: Note the renewal column. GS1 Nigeria says renewal is required for as long as its numbers are on your products. A barcode is a yearly cost, not a one-off purchase, so build it into the price of the product. About cheaper barcodes sold online You will find websites offering barcode numbers for a small one-time payment. Be careful. The reason to have a registered number is that a retailer can trust it belongs to your company and nobody else's. Before buying from anyone other than GS1 Nigeria, ask the supermarkets or distributors you hope to supply which numbers they accept. Their answer is the one that matters, and relabelling a whole production run is expensive. From number to label Once you have your numbers: Assign one number to each product variation and keep a list. Never reuse a number for a different product. Have the barcode image made from each number. Your packaging designer or printer can do this. Print it at a sensible size, in dark bars on a light, plain background, on a flat part of the pack. Barcodes over a seam, a curve or a busy pattern often fail to scan. Test before you print thousands. Scan a sample pack with an ordinary scanner or a phone app. Having a barcode doesn't get you onto a supermarket shelf. Retailers have their own requirements, which usually include NAFDAC registration for regulated products like food, drinks, cosmetics and medicines. Ask each retailer for their supplier requirements early. Internal barcodes for your own shop Back to the second case. If you only need to scan your own unbarcoded items at your own counter, you can create codes yourself. Give each item a short number of your own, for example 2001 for your 1kg bagged rice and 2002 for the 2kg. Use free barcode label software or a label printer to print them, and stick them on. Keep the list of which number is which product. A scanner isn't required to run a well-controlled shop, though. A stock record book and a daily sales record book do the same job for a small shop. Scanning becomes worth it when the queue at your counter is the thing slowing sales down.

  • How to get more customers on Jiji

    When Jiji adverts aren't bringing calls, the first instinct is to pay for promotion. Sometimes that's right. More often the advert itself is the problem, and paying only shows a weak advert to more people. Go through these first. They cost nothing. Get approved, and stay approved An advert nobody can see gets no customers. Jiji reviews every advert before it goes live, and its posting rules are specific about what it won't accept. As of 6 October 2026, these include: photos that aren't your own, such as screenshots or pictures from elsewhere photos with contact details, prices or logos written on them several different items in one photo titles with repeated words or contact details descriptions that aren't about the item prices outside the normal market range duplicates of an advert you have already posted The shortcut many sellers take, posting the supplier's catalogue image with a phone number written across it, breaks three of those at once. Photos do most of the selling On a phone screen your advert is a small picture and one line of text beside dozens of others. The picture decides whether anyone taps. Take the photo in daylight, near the shop door or a window. No flash. Use a plain background. A clean counter or a sheet of white cardboard works. Show the real item: front, back, any label with the model or size, the box, and any accessories. If it's used, photograph the scratches. Buyers who arrive and find surprises don't buy, and they've cost you an hour. One product per advert. A table covered in twenty phones tells the buyer nothing about the one they want. Write the title a buyer would type People search by what they want. Put those words in the title, in the order they'd think of them: brand, model, the key specification, and condition. "HP EliteBook 840 G5, Core i5, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, UK used" will be found by someone searching for any of those terms. "Neat laptop available" will be found by nobody. Don't shout. Capital letters, strings of exclamation marks and "CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP" read as desperate, and repeated words are against the rules anyway. Answer the questions before they are asked A good description saves you twenty phone calls from people who were never going to buy. Include: exactly what it is and what's in the box condition, stated honestly warranty, and who gives it your shop's area and opening hours whether you deliver, to where, and who pays Put a real price "Call for price" loses the buyer who is comparing five adverts and won't call any of them. A price that's obviously too low attracts time-wasters and suspicion. Look at what similar items are listed for and price where you can honestly compete. If you're higher, say why in the description, for example a warranty, a walk-in shop or original parts. Reply fast On a marketplace, the seller who answers first usually gets the sale. A buyer messages three sellers and goes with whoever replies. Decide who in the shop answers Jiji calls and messages, and make sure that person has the price list and knows what is in stock. A reply of "let me ask my boss" two hours later is a lost sale. When someone calls, confirm the item is on the shelf before saying yes. If your quantities aren't reliable, fix that with a stock record book for the items you advertise. Keep your adverts true Nothing damages a seller faster than adverts for things they no longer have. The buyer travels, finds nothing, and tells people. At closing each day, check what was sold against what is live and close the adverts for anything that's finished. When the stock comes back, post it again. Update prices too. If your cost has gone up and the advert still shows last month's price, every caller starts the conversation feeling misled. Use your shop A physical address is the best thing you have over sellers who only meet at junctions. Say so in every advert. Buyers can come and inspect, pay at a counter, and leave with a receipt. When they do come, treat it as the start of something. A customer who found you on Jiji and had a good experience comes back directly next time, and that costs you nothing. Then measure, and only then pay Mark every Jiji customer in your daily sales record book for a month. You'll learn which products bring calls, which adverts are dead, and how many Jiji sales a normal month gives you. With that figure you can make a sensible decision about paid promotion, because you'll be able to tell whether it brought extra sales or just cost money. How to work that out is in Jiji premium packages explained. If you are new to the platform, begin with how to sell on Jiji when you also run a shop.

  • How to keep stock records in Excel, with a sheet you can copy

    Most stock sheets people download are too clever. They have dashboards and macros, and they break the first time someone types in the wrong cell. A stock record that survives daily use in a shop is plain. It has three tabs and four formulas. It works the same in Excel and in Google Sheets. The idea Never type a balance. Type what happened, and let the sheet work out the balance. When people type balances by hand, one wrong subtraction stays wrong forever. When you record movements, in and out, the balance is always opening stock plus everything in, minus everything out. Tab 1: Items One row per product. Name the tab Items. Give every product a short code and never reuse one. "Opening qty" is what you counted on the day you started the sheet. Tab 2: Movements One row every time stock changes. Name the tab Movements. The Type column only ever says In or Out. A sale is Out. Damage is Out. A delivery is In. A customer return is In. Enter one Out line per item per day, taken from your daily sales record book. You don't need a row for every customer. You never delete or edit old rows on this tab. A mistake is corrected with a new line that says what it's correcting. Tab 3: Stock This is the tab you read. Name it Stock. Columns A to C repeat the code, item and unit from the Items tab. Then: In row 2, type these formulas, then copy them down the column. E2, total in: =SUMIFS(Movements!D:D, Movements!B:B, A2, Movements!C:C, "In") F2, total out: =SUMIFS(Movements!D:D, Movements!B:B, A2, Movements!C:C, "Out") G2, balance: =D2+E2-F2 I2, status: =IF(G2<=H2, "Reorder", "") J2, value: multiply the balance in G2 by the item's cost from the Items tab For D2 and H2, point at the matching cells on the Items tab, or copy the figures across once. With the sample rows above, tin milk shows Opening 48, In 24, Out 13, Balance 59. At the bottom of column J, add a total. That's the cost value of everything in your shop, a number most owners have never seen. Using it day to day Every evening, add the day's Out lines from the sales book. Every delivery, add In lines from your goods received note, using the quantity you counted. Every week, count your key items and compare with the Balance column. If the shelf has 57 and the sheet says 59, add a line: Out, 2, "Count adjustment", with the date. Don't touch the old rows. How to count is in how to take stock in a shop without closing for the day. Every morning, look down the Status column. Anything saying "Reorder" goes on today's order list. How to set the level is in reorder level formula. Protecting the sheet Lock the formula cells on the Stock tab so nobody types over them. Use a drop-down for the Type column so it only accepts In or Out. A typed "IN " with a space will not be counted. Use a drop-down for the code too, taken from the Items tab, so nobody enters a code that doesn't exist. Back it up. In Google Sheets this is automatic. In Excel, save to a cloud folder, not only to the shop laptop. One person enters each day. Their initials go in the By column. Where a spreadsheet runs out A sheet like this is a real step up from a notebook, and for one shop with a few hundred items it can serve for years. It does have limits, and it's better to know them now. It's always behind. The balance is only right as of the last time someone typed in the sales. During the day it's a guess. It trusts whoever is typing. Anyone with the file can change a number, and nothing shows who did or when. It's awkward on a phone, which is where most shop owners actually are. Two branches means two files, and nobody will keep them in step. It grows slow. After a year of daily rows, the Movements tab is long and the formulas start to drag. When those start to bite, you've outgrown it. That's the kind of shop we are building Tabs for. It hasn't launched yet. The good news is that nothing here is wasted: a clean Items tab, with codes, costs and prices, is exactly what any stock system will ask you for on the first day.

  • How to sell on Jiji when you also run a shop

    Putting your goods on Jiji is not the hard part. The posting form takes a few minutes. The hard part comes later, when someone calls from across town about the blue one, drives over, and finds you sold it yesterday. This guide covers both: getting adverts live, and running Jiji alongside a physical shop without disappointing people. The posting steps and rules below are taken from Jiji's own help page as it stood on 6 October 2026. Jiji changes its screens from time to time, so treat its page as the final word. Posting an advert Sign in to your Jiji profile, or register if you don't have one. Tap Sell. Choose the category that fits the item. Upload your photos. Write a clear title and a detailed description. Enter your price. Check everything, then tap Post Ad. The advert doesn't appear straight away. Jiji reviews it against its rules first and emails you when it is approved. If something is wrong, the email says what to change. What gets an advert rejected Most rejections come from the photos. Jiji says photos must be good quality, must be your own, and must show the actual item in the right category. They must not include: contact details or prices written on the image logos, including Jiji's screenshots or pictures taken from elsewhere several different items in one picture The title can't contain repeated words or contact details. The description has to be about the item. The price should be within the normal market range, and you can't post the same advert twice. For a shop owner the practical lesson is this: photograph your own stock, on your own counter, one item per picture. Catalogue images from the supplier's WhatsApp are exactly what gets refused. Writing an advert that gets calls Put what a buyer would type into the title: brand, model, size or capacity, and condition. "Samsung A15 128GB, new, sealed" will be found. "Clean phone for sale" won't. In the description, answer the questions you get asked every day in the shop. Is it new or used? What comes in the box? Is there a warranty, and from whom? Where is your shop, and what hours are you open? Give a real price. Adverts priced at ₦1 or "call for price" waste the buyer's time and yours, and Jiji's rules expect a market-range figure anyway. Running Jiji next to a physical shop Only advertise what you can hand over today. If you have two of something, both can go quickly, so check the shelf before you say "yes, it's available" on the phone. The surest way to keep this straight is a stock record you trust. If yours has drifted, start with a stock record book for the items you advertise. Take adverts down when stock runs out. Make it one person's job, at closing, to compare the day's sales with what is live on Jiji and close anything that's gone. Ten minutes a day prevents most wasted journeys. Keep one price. For example, if the advert says ₦85,000 and your attendant quotes ₦90,000 at the counter, the buyer assumes they're being cheated. Whoever answers the Jiji calls needs the same price list as the shop floor. Invite buyers to the shop. A physical address is your advantage over sellers who only meet at bus stops. Buyers can inspect the item, and you can issue a proper receipt. Record Jiji sales like any other sale. They go in the same daily sales book, with a note that the customer came from Jiji. After a month you'll know how much of your turnover the adverts bring in, which is what tells you whether paying to promote them is worth it. Paying for more visibility Posting does not require buying anything. Jiji sells Premium Services, called TOP and Boost packages, for sellers who want their adverts shown more prominently. Whether that's worth it depends on your margins, and it's a decision better made with a month of your own sales figures in hand. We've covered it separately in Jiji premium packages explained, and there are free things to fix first in how to get more customers on Jiji.

  • How to sell on WhatsApp Business when you also have a shop

    Your customers are already on WhatsApp. Many of them already message you there: "Do you have the big size?" "How much is it now?" "Keep one for me." Selling on WhatsApp isn't something new to learn. It's a matter of doing properly what's already happening by accident. For a shop, that mostly means two things: making it easy for people to see what you have, and making sure a sale made on the phone is recorded like any other. Use the Business app, on a shop number WhatsApp Business is a separate free app made for traders. Put it on a phone number that belongs to the shop, not your personal line. That matters more than it seems. If the shop's customers are all in your attendant's personal WhatsApp, they leave when the attendant leaves. A shop number stays with the shop. Fill in the business profile: shop name, what you sell, address, opening hours. It answers the questions people would otherwise send you. The tools worth using The catalogue is a page inside your profile showing your products with photos, prices and descriptions. Customers can browse it and send you a message about a specific item. This is the most useful feature for a shop. Status means photos or short videos that disappear after a day, seen by people who have saved your number. Good for new arrivals and restocks. Quick replies are saved answers to questions you get constantly: your address, your account details, your delivery charges. You type a short code and the full answer appears. Labels are coloured tags for chats, such as "New order", "Awaiting payment", "Paid", "Delivered". With ten orders open at once, labels are what stop one being forgotten. Greeting and away messages. An automatic reply for first-time messages and for when you're closed, so people know when to expect an answer. Broadcast lists. One message sent to many customers at once, each receiving it privately. It only reaches people who have saved your number, which is a useful limit: it keeps you from spamming strangers. Setting up the catalogue Photograph your own goods, in daylight, on a plain background. One product per entry, with the size, colour or variant in the name. Put the real price. "DM for price" loses people. Start with your 20 to 30 best items, not everything. Remove or hide what's out of stock. Nothing irritates a customer like ordering from a catalogue and being told it finished last week. That last point is the whole discipline of selling online from a physical shelf. Your catalogue is a promise about what's in the shop. It's only as true as your stock record, so if yours is shaky, start with a stock record book for the items you list. From message to money Agree one way of handling an order and have everyone follow it. Confirm the item is on the shelf before saying yes. Check, don't assume. State the total, including delivery if any. Send the shop's account details. Only the shop's account. Never a personal one. Confirm the money on your own bank app. A screenshot isn't payment. The routine is in fake transfer alerts: how to confirm a payment before goods leave the shop. Set the item aside with the customer's name on it the moment it's paid for. Record the sale in the daily sales record book, marked as a WhatsApp order. It comes off the shelf count like any other sale. Send a receipt, as a photo of the written one or a typed message with the items, amount and date. Hand over or dispatch, and update the label. Step 6 is the one that gets skipped. WhatsApp sales that never reach the sales book are a common reason the cash, the bank and the shelf don't agree at the end of the day. Delivery Decide your terms once and save them as a quick reply: which areas you deliver to, and what it costs who pays the rider, and when that goods are paid for before they leave what happens if the customer isn't there Use riders you know. Write down who took what, to where, and when. Have the customer confirm receipt in the chat. Posting without being a nuisance Post to status when there's something to say: new stock, a restock of something that ran out, a real price drop. Two or three useful posts a week beat ten a day. Use broadcasts sparingly. Once or twice a month, with something worth opening. Never add customers to groups they didn't ask to join. Reply quickly during opening hours. On WhatsApp the customer is often asking two other shops the same question, and the first helpful answer wins. Is it worth it? Mark WhatsApp orders in your sales book for a month, the same way you would for Jiji. At the end, add them up. You'll know how much of your turnover comes through the phone, which products sell there, and whether it deserves more of your time. If you also list on a marketplace, compare the two. More on that in how to sell on Jiji when you also run a shop.

  • Jiji premium packages explained: TOP, Boost and whether they pay

    Sooner or later every seller on Jiji asks the same question: my adverts are live, the calls are slow, should I pay to promote them? This article explains how Jiji's paid options are organised and gives you a way to answer that question with your own numbers. One thing first. We haven't listed prices here. Jiji shows them inside its app and website by category, they change, and we couldn't confirm a current price list we would stand behind. A figure copied from an old blog post is worse than no figure. Below is where to find the real one. What Jiji sells According to Jiji's help page on Premium Services, checked on 6 October 2026, there are two kinds of paid promotion: TOP and Boost Packages. Which Boost Packages you are offered depends on what you sell. Jiji groups sellers into five category groups: Cars, for vehicle sellers Property, for real estate Others, for goods outside cars and property Others Lite, for fashion, services, beauty, food and similar All-in-one, for larger businesses promoting across every category Most shops will fall under Others or Others Lite. How to see the current price Open Jiji's Premium Services page. The help page above links to it. Choose the category group that fits what you sell. Look through the packages offered and the durations available. Pick a package and a duration, and tap Buy when you are ready. The price is shown before you pay. Jiji also says that if you aren't sure which to choose, you can ask for a call from a Jiji manager using Request help in your profile. Take that call if you're spending real money, and ask exactly what the package changes about where your adverts appear. Working out whether it pays A promotion is worth buying when the extra profit it brings is more than its price. Not extra sales. Extra profit. You need three numbers. Your profit per sale. What you keep on a typical Jiji sale after the cost of the item. If you sell a blender for ₦42,000 that cost you ₦35,000 landed, that's ₦7,000. The price of the package. From the screen above. Your normal Jiji sales. How many sales a week you get from Jiji without paying. If you don't know, you aren't ready to test anything yet. Mark Jiji customers in your daily sales book for a month first. Then divide the package price by your profit per sale. That is your break-even. Here's an example with invented figures: a package costs ₦14,000 for the month, and you keep ₦7,000 a sale. ₦14,000 ÷ ₦7,000 = 2. The promotion has to bring two extra sales in the month to pay for itself. If you normally get five Jiji sales a month and you get eight while promoted, it earned its keep. If you get five, it didn't. Now change the product. If you sell phone cases, for example, and keep ₦800 a sale, the same package needs 18 extra sales to break even. Paid promotion suits goods with a decent profit on each sale. It rarely suits low-priced items. Running a fair test Buy the shortest duration first. Promote the same adverts you were already running, so the promotion is the only thing that changed. Count Jiji sales for those weeks and compare with your normal figure. Avoid testing in a week that would have been unusual anyway. December proves nothing about February. Have the stock before you promote. Paying for attention and then telling callers "it has finished" is the most expensive way to run out. If you are unsure of your quantities, sort that first with a stock record book. Before you pay for anything Promotion puts more people in front of an advert. It doesn't make a weak advert convincing. If your photos are dark, your title is vague or your price is missing, more views will mostly mean more people scrolling past. The free fixes come first, and they're in how to get more customers on Jiji. If you are still setting up, start with how to sell on Jiji when you also run a shop.

  • Jiji or Jumia: which is better for a shop owner?

    People ask which is better as though they were two versions of the same thing. They aren't. They work in opposite ways, and which suits you depends on what you sell and how much of the selling you want to do yourself. The descriptions below are drawn from each company's own seller pages as they stood on 6 October 2026: Jiji's help pages and Jumia's VendorHub FAQ. Both change their terms, so confirm on their sites before you commit. How Jiji works Jiji is a classifieds site. You post an advert, a buyer sees it and contacts you, and the two of you do the deal directly. You post adverts yourself, and Jiji reviews each one before it goes live. Buyers reach you by call or chat. You agree the price with the buyer, and you can negotiate. You collect the payment. You hand over the goods or arrange delivery. Posting doesn't require buying anything. Jiji sells Premium Services, called TOP and Boost packages, for more visibility. In short, Jiji finds you the customer. Everything after that is yours. How Jumia works Jumia is a marketplace. The customer orders and pays on Jumia, and Jumia stands between you and the buyer. According to its VendorHub FAQ: You register as a seller with KYC documents: a national ID for individuals, or CAC registration documents for companies, plus bank account details. Jumia charges a commission, a percentage taken from the sale price, which varies by product category. You're paid by Jumia, typically on a weekly payout, with statements in the Vendor Center. For delivery, you either use Jumia Express, where Jumia stores your items and handles packing and delivery, or you keep the stock and drop packages at a Jumia drop-off station. Returns come back through the drop-off station for you to inspect and collect. In short, Jumia handles the order, the payment and the delivery, and takes a share for it. We haven't quoted commission rates. They differ by category and change, so read the current table on VendorHub for what you sell. Side by side Which goods suit which Jiji tends to suit: Higher-value items people want to see before paying: phones, laptops, generators, furniture, appliances. Used and fairly used goods. Items where buyers expect to negotiate. Bulky things that are awkward to courier. Sellers with a physical shop, because buyers can walk in. Jumia tends to suit: New, standard, packaged goods that are the same every time. Items that are easy to describe exactly and easy to ship. Sellers who can hold steady stock of the same lines. Sellers who'd rather not handle calls, haggling and riders. What each demands of your shop This is the part most comparisons skip. On Jiji, the risk is wasted time. An advert for something you sold yesterday costs you a phone call and an annoyed buyer. You need to take adverts down as stock runs out. It's manageable with a daily check. On Jumia, the risk is an order you can't fill. The customer has already paid Jumia. If the item isn't on your shelf because it sold over the counter an hour ago, you have a cancelled order against your seller record. Listing on a marketplace from the same shelf you sell from in person needs stock figures you can trust. On Jumia, your price has to carry the commission. Work out your margin after the commission and any delivery contribution, not before. An item that earns you 15% in the shop may earn very little once a category commission comes off. The arithmetic is in markup vs margin. On Jumia, your money arrives later. Weekly payouts mean you've parted with the goods before you're paid. A small shop needs enough cash to restock in between. Either way, record marketplace sales in your daily sales record book with the source marked, and keep a stock record for everything you list. So which one? If you run a shop selling goods such as phones, electronics, furniture or anything customers like to inspect, start with Jiji. It costs nothing to begin and it sends people to your door. See how to sell on Jiji when you also run a shop. If you sell new, standard goods, can keep them reliably in stock, and your margins leave room for commission, Jumia can add sales you'd never get from passers-by. Many sellers use both, for different products. If you do, don't list the same last unit in two places. Keep one stock count, decide how many units each channel may sell, and update both when something goes. Whichever you choose, run it for a month and measure. Count the sales, take off the fees, and see what you actually kept.

  • POS machine for your shop: which kind you need and what to ask

    "POS" means three different things in Nigeria, and a lot of confusion comes from mixing them up. Before you compare prices, be sure which one you're shopping for. We haven't listed device prices or transaction charges here. They vary by provider, they change often, and we couldn't confirm a current set from the providers' own pages. The questions further down will get you real figures in one phone call. Three things called POS 1. The payment terminal is the handheld machine a customer taps or inserts a card into. It takes card payments and, on many models, shows incoming transfers. It moves money. It doesn't know what you sold. 2. The agent banking business is the kiosk on the corner where people withdraw cash and send money, for a fee. Same kind of device, but a different business. It's a service you sell, not a way of collecting for goods. 3. Point-of-sale software is a program on a phone, tablet or computer where each sale is entered by item. It works out the total, prints a receipt and reduces your stock. It may or may not connect to a payment terminal. A shop that says "I need a POS" usually needs the first. Some need the third as well. Very few need the second, and running it from the same counter causes problems, covered below. What a small shop needs For most small shops: one payment terminal, on a merchant account in the business's name. Customers increasingly don't carry cash. A shop that can only take cash or a transfer loses the customer whose bank app is down. A terminal gives them a third way to pay, and a card payment that's approved on your own machine is one you don't have to wonder about. You probably don't need point-of-sale software yet if you serve customers one at a time from a counter and a daily sales record book keeps up. It starts to earn its place when there's a queue at the till, when you carry hundreds of items, or when you have more than one branch. Questions to ask before you take a terminal Ask every provider the same questions and write the answers side by side. About the device What do I pay to get it? Is that a purchase, a deposit or a rental? If it's a deposit, is it refundable when I return the device, and on what conditions? Is there a monthly fee, or a minimum number of transactions I must do? What happens if it develops a fault? Who repairs or replaces it, and how fast? About charges What is charged on each card payment? A percentage, a flat fee, or both? Is there a cap? Who bears it, me or the customer? Are transfers into the account charged? What does it cost to move money from the terminal's account to my main bank account? About your money When does a payment reach my account? Instantly, same day or next day? Does that include weekends and public holidays? Is the account in my business name? About using it Which networks does it use, and does it work where my shop is? Ask a nearby trader which machines actually connect on your street. Does it print a receipt? What do paper rolls cost? Does it show a list of the day's transactions and an end-of-day total? Can I see transactions on my phone when I'm not in the shop? About problems If a customer is debited but the payment fails, how is it resolved, and how long does it take? Is there a person I can call? The cheapest device isn't the cheapest terminal. A slightly higher charge with instant settlement and working support can be worth more than a low fee on a machine that sits waiting for network. Using it properly Mark POS sales in your sales book in the "Paid by" column, so you have a POS total for the day. At closing, compare that total with the terminal's end-of-day summary. They should match. Keep the merchant copy of slips for larger sales. Wait for "Approved". A customer saying "it has gone" isn't the terminal saying so. If the machine shows declined or times out, the sale isn't paid. The same thinking as in fake transfer alerts applies. Don't let the terminal's account become a second till that nobody checks. Move the money to your main account on a fixed routine. Should you add agent services? Many shop owners are tempted to offer withdrawals and transfers from the same counter, for the fees. Think carefully. It mixes two pools of cash. When the drawer holds shop takings and agent float together, you can no longer tell whether the shop's cash is right. A shortage could be either business. It also takes your attendant's attention, puts more cash on the premises, and brings its own disputes over failed transactions. If you do it, run it as a separate business: its own float, its own drawer, its own record book, and its own daily balance. Never pay out a withdrawal from shop takings and "sort it out later". When software becomes worth it You've outgrown the notebook when sales happen faster than anyone can write them, when stock pages are always behind, or when you can't see what a second branch sold today. At that point you want a system where each sale is entered by item and by staff member, and stock moves with it. That's what we are building Tabs for. It hasn't launched yet. Until then, a terminal for payments and good paper records will run a small shop well. See how to manage stock in a small shop.

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The posts we point people to first.

  • Daily sales record book format, with a sample page

    The sales book templates you find online were mostly designed for a shop that takes cash. A Nigerian shop takes cash, bank transfers and POS, often all three within ten minutes. A book with one "Amount" column can't tell you why the money in the drawer is ₦40,000 less than the sales total, when the answer is simply that ₦40,000 came in by transfer. So the format needs one more column than the usual template: how the customer paid. The format Start a new page every day. Write the date at the top and the name of whoever opened the shop. No. numbers the sales from 1 each day. Price is the price for one. Amount is quantity times price. Paid by is Cash, Transfer, POS or Credit. Sold by is the initials of the person who made the sale. A sample page Here's an example. The figures are invented. The mix of payments is typical. Monday 5 October. Opened by: CN. At the bottom of the page, add it up by payment type: Closing the day This is the part that makes the book worth keeping. It takes about ten minutes. Cash. Count the drawer. Take away the float you started with. What's left should equal the cash total, less anything paid out of the till during the day. Transfers. Open the bank app and add up the day's credit alerts. They should equal the transfer total. Every alert should match a line in the book, and every transfer line should have an alert. POS. Print or view the terminal's end-of-day summary. It should equal the POS total. Credit. Copy each credit sale into your debtors' list with the customer's name. Credit is a sale, but it is not money yet. Sign. Whoever closed writes the three figures they found and signs the page. If cash is short, you'll see it tonight, while everyone still remembers the day. If a transfer line has no alert, you'll see that too. Customers do sometimes show a "successful" screen for a payment that never arrives, and tonight is a better time to find out than the end of the month. Money that leaves the till Shops pay for things out of the drawer all day, such as a loader, fuel for the generator, water, or change borrowed for a neighbour. If those aren't written down, the cash will never balance and nobody will be able to say why. Keep a small box at the bottom of each page headed "Paid out", with what it was for, the amount, and who took it. Then the cash check becomes: float, plus cash sales, minus paid out, equals what's in the drawer. The mistakes that spoil it Writing "sundries ₦6,000" for a group of items. The sales book feeds your stock record, and "sundries" can't be taken off any shelf. Write the items. Recording a credit sale as cash "because she always pays". She may. Until she does, the drawer will be short by exactly that amount. Leaving the Sold by column empty. When each sale carries a name, a shortage has a starting point and honest staff aren't under the same cloud as everyone else. There is more on that in how to stop staff stealing from your shop. Skipping the close because the shop was busy. A busy day is the day the check matters most. The sales book tells you what money should exist. Its partner is the stock record book, which tells you what goods should exist. Each day's sales lines are what you post into the stock pages, one total per item.

  • How to manage stock in a small shop in Nigeria

    Stock is where a shop's money lives. A provision store with ₦3 million of goods on the shelves and ₦40,000 in the drawer has nearly all its wealth in tins and cartons. Yet most owners count the ₦40,000 every night and the ₦3 million once a year. Stock control sounds like something for supermarkets with scanners. It isn't. At the size of a small shop it comes down to five habits, and all of them can run on a notebook. 1. Know what you sell Write a list of every product, with the unit you count it in, what it costs you and what you sell it for. It's dull work and it pays back immediately. Most owners doing it for the first time find items they forgot they had, items priced below what they now cost, and two or three products that take up a whole shelf and haven't sold since Easter. Be exact about what counts as one product. A 400g tin and a 900g tin of the same milk are two products. So are the red and the black of the same phone case, if customers ask for them by colour. 2. Write down everything that comes in and goes out Stock changes for only a few reasons: you received goods, you sold goods, or something else happened to them. Damage, expiry, a return to the supplier, an item taken for the house. Each of those gets written down on the day. Sales go in a daily sales record book. Everything, including each day's sales total per item, goes on that item's page in a stock record book, which keeps a running balance of what should be on the shelf. If you only do one thing from this guide, do this for your 30 most important items. 3. Count, and compare A record nobody checks drifts away from the truth. The count is what pulls it back. You don't need to close. Count a section a day, and count your most valuable items weekly on a day that changes. Compare each count with the book balance and write the difference down in naira. The full method, with a count sheet, is in how to take stock in a shop without closing for the day. When the shelf and the book disagree, the cause is one of three things: a recording mistake, damage nobody reported, or theft. Regular counts are how you tell them apart. A random difference now and then is error. The same items short every week is a pattern, and this guide to staff theft covers what to do about it. 4. Reorder by numbers, not by feeling Running out of a fast seller sends your customer to a competitor. Buying too much of a slow one locks up money you need for the fast one. Both come from ordering by eye. For each important item, work out a reorder level. A reorder level is the balance at which you place the next order, based on how many you sell a day and how long your supplier takes. Write it at the top of the item's page. The arithmetic is in reorder level formula, with a worked naira example. 5. Deal with what isn't selling Every shop has goods that have sat for months. They look like stock. In practice they are cash you can't spend, and some of them are getting closer to an expiry date. Once a month, go through your stock pages and mark anything with no sale in 60 days. Then decide: move it, bundle it, discount it, return it or write it off. The options, and how to choose, are in slow-moving stock: what to do with goods that won't sell. For anything with an expiry date, put new stock behind old stock every time you fill a shelf, so the oldest sells first. Two things that sit alongside stock control Pricing. Your records give you the true cost of each item, which is the only sound basis for a price. Many shops believe they make 20% and make less. See markup vs margin. People. Records only work if the people handling goods and money keep them. Put initials on every entry, and make closing the day a fixed routine. If you want the shop to run without you in it, this is how. A weekly rhythm When the notebook stops being enough A notebook handles one shop, a few hundred products and two or three staff. It starts to strain when the product list grows past what one person can keep posted each evening, when you open a second branch, or when you sell in the shop and online from the same shelf. The signs are easy to spot: the stock pages are a week behind, the count takes so long it gets skipped, and you no longer trust the balances. That's the point where software earns its place, and it's what we are building Tabs for. It hasn't launched yet. Whenever you do move to a system, the five habits above are what make it work. A system given bad records only gets to the wrong answer faster.

  • How to run your shop when you're not there

    There is a kind of shop owner who hasn't travelled for a wedding in four years. Not because the business is failing. Because it only works when they are standing in it. When you ask why, the answer is nearly always the same: "If I'm not there, things go missing." What that usually means is that the owner is the system. They hold the prices in their head, they notice what is running low, and their presence is the only control on the till. Getting your life back doesn't require trusting people more. It requires moving those jobs out of your head and onto paper, so the shop reports to you whether you are there or not. What you need to see each day You can't watch the shop from another town, and you don't need to. You need five pieces of information to reach you every evening. The sales page. A photo of the day's page from the sales record book, with totals for cash, transfer, POS and credit. The closing figures. Cash counted in the drawer, signed by whoever closed. The bank alerts. These already come to your phone. Each one should match a transfer line on the sales page. Anything received. A photo of the supplier's invoice for any delivery, signed by the person who checked it in. Anything unusual. For example, goods damaged, a customer complaint, or an item that has finished. Sent as five WhatsApp messages at closing, that takes your staff about five minutes. Reading them takes you about the same. The point isn't to study every line. It's that the page exists, the totals agree with your alerts, and everyone knows you look. A shop where the evening report is expected behaves differently from one where nobody asks. The check that doesn't depend on reports Reports are written by the people you are checking, so you need one figure they can't shape. That figure is the stock count. Pick 20 items that are valuable or fast-moving. Once a week, have them counted on a day nobody knew in advance, by someone who doesn't sell: a relative, a friend who owes you a favour, or you on a surprise visit. Compare the counts with the stock book. If sales reports say 30 tins were sold and 38 are gone from the shelf, you know something no report was going to tell you. The method is in how to take stock in a shop. Decide who decides Half the phone calls an absent owner gets are questions with no owner-level answer. Can I give this customer a discount? The supplier came with a different price, should I take it? Can Mama Tobi take goods on credit? Write the answers down once. A price list, on the wall, that staff follow. If a discount is ever allowed, say how much and who can give it. A credit list: the customers who may take goods on credit, and the limit for each. Nobody else. A rule for deliveries: accept only what was ordered, at the agreed price, and call you if either is different. One person in charge when you are away. Not two, and not "whoever is around". What stays with you Being absent from the shop is not the same as letting go of it. Keep these in your own hands. The money. Customer transfers go to the business account, which only you operate. Cash above an agreed float is banked or sent to you on set days, not left to pile up. Paying suppliers. Staff receive goods. You pay for them. Splitting those two jobs closes one of the easiest routes for losses. Prices. Staff can tell you a supplier's price has gone up. You decide the new selling price. The count. At least once a month, be there in person and count something yourself. Handing over between staff If more than one person runs the shop across the day or the week, the changeover is where things vanish, because each can say it happened on the other's shift. Make the changeover a count. The person leaving and the person arriving count the cash and the 20 key items together, and both sign the figures. It takes ten minutes, and from then on every shortage belongs to a known shift. Three pieces of paper hold a changeover together. A duty roster says who is meant to be there. An opening and closing checklist says what they do first and last. A handing over note carries what one shift knows to the next. Where software comes in Everything above works on paper and WhatsApp, and you should start it that way this week. Its weakness is that it depends on people sending photos and on you adding up columns. That's the gap we are building Tabs for: each sale recorded under the name of the person who made it, stock that drops as sales happen, and the day's figures visible from wherever you are. It hasn't launched yet. The routine above is the right foundation either way, because software can only report what a shop has agreed to record. Start with the evening report. Run it for two weeks while you are still in the shop, so the habit is settled before you rely on it. Then take a Saturday off and see what arrives on your phone.

  • How to sell on Jiji when you also run a shop

    Putting your goods on Jiji is not the hard part. The posting form takes a few minutes. The hard part comes later, when someone calls from across town about the blue one, drives over, and finds you sold it yesterday. This guide covers both: getting adverts live, and running Jiji alongside a physical shop without disappointing people. The posting steps and rules below are taken from Jiji's own help page as it stood on 6 October 2026. Jiji changes its screens from time to time, so treat its page as the final word. Posting an advert Sign in to your Jiji profile, or register if you don't have one. Tap Sell. Choose the category that fits the item. Upload your photos. Write a clear title and a detailed description. Enter your price. Check everything, then tap Post Ad. The advert doesn't appear straight away. Jiji reviews it against its rules first and emails you when it is approved. If something is wrong, the email says what to change. What gets an advert rejected Most rejections come from the photos. Jiji says photos must be good quality, must be your own, and must show the actual item in the right category. They must not include: contact details or prices written on the image logos, including Jiji's screenshots or pictures taken from elsewhere several different items in one picture The title can't contain repeated words or contact details. The description has to be about the item. The price should be within the normal market range, and you can't post the same advert twice. For a shop owner the practical lesson is this: photograph your own stock, on your own counter, one item per picture. Catalogue images from the supplier's WhatsApp are exactly what gets refused. Writing an advert that gets calls Put what a buyer would type into the title: brand, model, size or capacity, and condition. "Samsung A15 128GB, new, sealed" will be found. "Clean phone for sale" won't. In the description, answer the questions you get asked every day in the shop. Is it new or used? What comes in the box? Is there a warranty, and from whom? Where is your shop, and what hours are you open? Give a real price. Adverts priced at ₦1 or "call for price" waste the buyer's time and yours, and Jiji's rules expect a market-range figure anyway. Running Jiji next to a physical shop Only advertise what you can hand over today. If you have two of something, both can go quickly, so check the shelf before you say "yes, it's available" on the phone. The surest way to keep this straight is a stock record you trust. If yours has drifted, start with a stock record book for the items you advertise. Take adverts down when stock runs out. Make it one person's job, at closing, to compare the day's sales with what is live on Jiji and close anything that's gone. Ten minutes a day prevents most wasted journeys. Keep one price. For example, if the advert says ₦85,000 and your attendant quotes ₦90,000 at the counter, the buyer assumes they're being cheated. Whoever answers the Jiji calls needs the same price list as the shop floor. Invite buyers to the shop. A physical address is your advantage over sellers who only meet at bus stops. Buyers can inspect the item, and you can issue a proper receipt. Record Jiji sales like any other sale. They go in the same daily sales book, with a note that the customer came from Jiji. After a month you'll know how much of your turnover the adverts bring in, which is what tells you whether paying to promote them is worth it. Paying for more visibility Posting does not require buying anything. Jiji sells Premium Services, called TOP and Boost packages, for sellers who want their adverts shown more prominently. Whether that's worth it depends on your margins, and it's a decision better made with a month of your own sales figures in hand. We've covered it separately in Jiji premium packages explained, and there are free things to fix first in how to get more customers on Jiji.

  • How to stop staff stealing from your shop

    The shop is busy. Customers come in all day; the shelves empty and get refilled, and the sales book looks healthy. Then you sit down at the end of the month, and the money doesn't match the goods that left. Not by a frightening amount. Just enough that you start watching people. In August 2025, police in Niger State arrested a sales attendant from a phone shop in Minna. The owner put the missing phones and cash at ₦29 million. According to the police account reported by Premium Times, she told them she had worked there since 2023 and couldn't say whether what she had taken added up to that much. That last detail is the one worth sitting with. Goods and cash can leave a shop for so long that even the person taking them loses count. Most owners try to solve this by catching a thief. They buy a camera, they sit in the shop, they change staff every few months. What actually works is duller and cheaper: set the shop up so that a loss shows itself within days, while it is still small enough to talk about. How stock and money actually leave a shop It helps to be specific, because each route has a different fix. The sale nobody wrote down. The customer pays cash, the item leaves, nothing goes in the book. The cash goes in a pocket and, on paper, the item is still on your shelf. The transfer to the wrong account. The customer asks to pay by transfer and gets a personal account number, or a POS terminal that isn't yours. The top-up. Your price is ₦12,000. You told the customer ₦13,500, and they paid it. Your book says ₦12,000. Your stock and cash both balance, which is why many owners never find this. Your customers are being overcharged in your name. Goods through the back. Items passed to a friend, "sold" on a credit that never gets paid, or carried home in a bag. The short delivery. The supplier's invoice says ten cartons. Nine reach the store room. Borrowing from the till. Usually with a sincere plan to put it back on Friday. Then there are the losses that are nobody's crime. A delivery that was miscounted on arrival. Wrong change on a rushed afternoon. A bottle that broke and got swept up quietly. Goods given on credit to a regular customer and forgotten. A size 42 sold and recorded as a size 44. A shortage tells you something is wrong with your records or with your people. On its own, it doesn't tell you which. Keep that in mind before you look at anyone differently. Find the gap before you look for the person Everything depends on knowing one number: what should be on the shelf. What you had, plus what came in, minus what was recorded as sold, is what should be there. Then you count what is there. Here is an example with made-up figures. You sell a body cream at ₦4,500. On Monday morning there are 48 on the shelf. On Wednesday your supplier delivers 24. By Saturday night the sales book shows 31 sold. 48 plus 24 is 72, less 31 is 41. You count the shelf and find 38. Three are missing. That's ₦13,500 in one week, on one product, in a shop that felt like it was running fine. You don't need to count the whole shop to do this. Pick the ten to twenty items most worth taking: small, expensive and fast-moving. In a phone shop that's handsets, power banks and earbuds. In a provision store it's tinned milk, spirits and the better creams. Count those every week and leave the full stock-take for once a month or once a quarter. Three habits make the count worth trusting. Do it yourself, or give it to someone who doesn't sell. Don't count on the same day every week. And write the result down with the date, because this week's count is next week's opening figure. One gap is a question. The same gap on the same items three weeks running, especially if it follows one person's shifts, is close to an answer. Close the easy routes Most of the routes above stay open for one reason: a single person sells the item, collects the money and writes the record. Nobody else ever sees the whole transaction. You close them by putting a second pair of eyes somewhere in that chain. Split the jobs. With two staff, one attends to the customer and the other collects payment and writes the receipt. With one, keep two jobs for yourself: receiving deliveries and doing the count. Use one account for transfers. Print the business account name and number and put it where customers can read it, with a line saying that payment to any other account is not payment to the shop. Have the alerts come to your phone. The same goes for the POS terminal: one machine, settling to the business. Give a receipt for every sale. Use a numbered duplicate booklet. A missing number is something you ask about that evening. Put up a small sign telling customers to ask for their receipt, with your own phone number on it. That quietly turns every customer into a checker. It also gives people a way to reach you. The ACFE's 2026 Report to the Nations, a study of 2,402 fraud cases inside organisations in 143 countries, found that 43% came to light through a tip, far more than through any audit or review, and that the typical scheme had been running for about 12 months by then. That study covers organisations of every size around the world, not Nigerian shops. The lesson travels anyway: the people standing nearest the problem usually know first, and they need somewhere to say it. Put a name on every sale. Initials beside each line in the sales book are enough. When each person signs for what they sold, a shortage has somewhere to start. It also protects your honest staff, who otherwise share the suspicion equally with whoever is responsible. Close every day. Cash in the drawer plus the day's transfer alerts should equal the day's recorded sales. It takes ten minutes, and whoever closes signs the page. Display your prices. A price tag on the shelf or a printed list on the wall ends the top-up, because the customer can see what you charge. About the two things owners reach for first. A camera is worth having. It discourages the casual attempt, and once your count has pointed at a particular afternoon, the footage can show you what happened. But a camera can't tell you that a carton is missing, and nobody watches twelve hours of video a day. Sitting in the shop yourself works very well, right up to the week you fall ill or open a second branch. What a guarantor form does, and what it doesn't Almost every owner asks new staff for a guarantor, and it is worth doing. It shows you whether anyone is prepared to vouch for this person, and it gives you a route to recover money if things go badly. It only does those things if you verify it. Meet the guarantor. Go to the address. Keep a copy of their ID, and make sure they understand what they signed. A form signed by someone you can't find is just paper. And remember when a guarantor becomes useful: after the loss. The form is not a control. It doesn't replace the weekly count, and owners who treat it as protection tend to stop counting. A short written agreement helps for a different reason. It sets out what the job includes: which records the person keeps, how the day is closed, and what happens when a count comes up short. Staff who were told the rules on the first day take the count far less personally than staff who meet it for the first time in an argument. Pay on time, as well. That isn't a comment on anyone's character. A person who is owed two months' salary and handles your cash every day is a risk you created yourself. When the numbers point at someone Don't accuse anyone on the strength of one count. Count again. Check the delivery notes and the credit book. Then sit down privately and ask the person to walk you through the records for those days. A good number of these conversations end with a mistake found and corrected, and you'll be glad you asked instead of announcing. If it isn't a mistake, be careful with the usual response, which is "I will remove it from your salary." Section 5 of the Labour Act doesn't leave that decision to the employer. You can't fine a worker. A reasonable deduction for loss caused by a worker's wilful misconduct or neglect is allowed, but only with the prior written consent of an authorised labour officer, and total deductions in any month can't exceed one-third of that month's wages. Theft itself is a matter for the police, and this is where your records pay for themselves a second time. Dated counts, numbered receipts and a signed sales book are evidence. "I just know" is not. Whatever you find, don't lock anyone in, don't lay hands on them, and don't parade them or post them online. Apart from being wrong, it can turn you into the one answering questions at the station. This is general information and not legal advice. For a large loss, talk to a lawyer before you act. All of this runs on a notebook, a receipt booklet and an hour a week, and plenty of shops run it exactly that way. It gets heavier as the shop grows: more products to count, more staff to initial, a second branch you can't visit daily. That's the point where software earns its place, because it does the arithmetic as each sale happens. That's what we are building Tabs to do: stock that moves when a sale is recorded, and a name and time on everything staff do. It hasn't launched yet, so for now the notebook version is the one to use. Start this week with the smallest version. Twenty items, one count, one account for transfers and initials on every sale. If the numbers agree, you've bought peace of mind cheaply. If they don't, you've found out while the number is still small.

  • How to take stock in a shop without closing for the day

    The reason most shops take stock once a year, if at all, is that it means locking the door for a day. A day closed is a day's sales gone, so the count keeps getting moved to next month. You don't have to close. Count the shop in pieces, one section at a time, while it stays open. A provision store split into six sections is fully counted in a week at about half an hour a day. Before you count Divide the shop into sections that one person can count in 30 to 40 minutes. Go by where things physically sit, not by category. For example: left wall top shelves, left wall bottom shelves, the counter display, the fridge, the store room. Give each section a name and write the list down. The same sections get used every time. Then rule your count sheet. One sheet per section. Fill in the Item and Unit columns before you start, in the order the goods sit on the shelf. Leave the Book balance column empty for now. That's deliberate, and it matters. The count Pick a quiet time. For most shops that's the first hour after opening or the slow stretch in mid-afternoon. Tidy the section first. Pull forward anything pushed to the back, and bring out cartons of the same item from under the shelf so they are counted together. Count from one end to the other, top shelf to bottom. Write each figure down the moment you have it. Count in the unit on the sheet. If the sheet says tins, open cartons get counted as tins. A sealed carton of 24 is 24. Put a small sticker or chalk mark on each shelf as you finish it, so nothing is counted twice or skipped. Only when the section is done, copy in the book balance for each item and work out the difference. The person counting should not know the book balance in advance. Someone who knows the book says 48 tends to find 48. That's the reason the column stays empty until the end, and the reason the best counter is someone who doesn't sell from that section. Sales made while you are counting This is what puts people off counting during opening hours, and it has a simple answer. Keep a scrap of paper in the section. If a customer buys something from a shelf you have already counted, write it down: item and quantity. If they buy from a shelf you haven't reached, do nothing, because the count will pick it up. At the end, subtract the noted sales from your counted figures before you compare with the book. Three tins sold from a counted shelf means the shelf figure you compare is three lower. Reading the result Here is part of a sheet from an imaginary provision store. Small differences in both directions are usually recording mistakes. One over on sardines probably means a sale was written against the wrong item. Six cans short is different. Before deciding what it means, check three things. Was the last delivery really the quantity on the invoice? Is there a carton in the store room that wasn't counted? Were any given out on credit and not written down? If all three come back clean, you have a real shortage, and it is worth reading about how stock and money leave a shop. Put a value on it either way. Six cans at a cost of ₦700 is ₦4,200. Shortages feel different once they are in naira. After the count Correct the book to match the shelf. In your stock record book, write a line that says "Counted on shelf" with the date and the real figure, so the book starts the next week telling the truth. Don't quietly change the old balance. The correction is part of the record. Keep the count sheets in a file. After three months they show you things a single count can't: which items are short again and again, and which section they sit in. How often There isn't one right answer, but this works for most small shops. Count your 20 most valuable or fastest items every week, on a day that changes. Count the whole shop, section by section, once a month. Do one full count on a single day at the end of the year, when you want a clean figure for your accounts. A weekly count of 20 items takes 15 minutes. It's the cheapest protection a shop has.

  • Stock record book format, with a filled-in example

    Most stock books fail for the same reason. Everything goes on one page, in the order it happened, and by the second week nobody can tell how many tins of milk are meant to be on the shelf without reading forty lines. The fix is one page per item. Each product gets its own page, and that page only ever answers one question: how many of this should we have right now? The format Rule a hardback notebook like this. At the top of the page, write the item, the unit you count it in, what it costs you, what you sell it for, and the level at which you reorder. Date is the day it happened, not the day you remembered to write it. Details says what happened: sold, received, damaged, returned, taken for the house. In is what came into the shop. Out is what left, for any reason. Balance is what should now be on the shelf. Sign is the initials of whoever wrote the line. That is the whole format. Six columns. A page filled in Here is one page for one product over a week. The figures are made up, but the entries are the kind a provision store sees. Item: Milo 500g tin. Unit: tin. Cost: ₦3,900. Selling price: ₦4,500. Reorder at: 24. A few things to notice. Sales are one line per day, not one line per customer. The daily figure comes from your sales book, so this book stays short. The balance on 2 October hit the reorder level of 24, and the delivery arrived the next day. The dented tin has its own line, so it doesn't turn into an unexplained shortage later. The last line is the one most books leave out. On 6 October someone counted the shelf and found 32, not 33. The book is corrected to match the shelf, and the missing tin is written down as a fact with a date. One tin is ₦3,900. Now you know. If you sell hundreds of items A page per item is right for the goods that matter: anything expensive, fast or easy to carry away. For a shop with 400 lines, nobody is going to keep 400 pages moving every day. So split it. Keep full pages for your top 30 to 50 items. For the rest, use a weekly sheet with one line per item: "Should be" is opening plus received, minus sold and damaged. Then you count, and write what you find. What makes a stock book useless Writing it from memory. A book filled in on Saturday for the whole week is a story, not a record. The line goes in on the day. No line for anything except sales. Goods leave a shop in other ways, such as breakage, expiry, returns to the supplier, items taken home, samples given out. If the book has no place for them, they all show up as "missing". Never writing down a count. A book that is never checked against the shelf drifts further from the truth every week. The count line is what keeps it honest. If you haven't done one before, here is how to take stock without closing the shop. No cost price on the page. Without it you know you are three tins short. With it you know you are ₦11,700 short, which is the number that gets attention. Pencil, and torn pages. Write in pen. When you make a mistake, rule one line through it and write the correct figure beside it. A book that can be quietly changed proves nothing when you need it to. One person writes everything. Whoever receives a delivery signs for it. Whoever sold signs the day's line. Initials cost nothing and they are what you will want when a shortage needs explaining. The stock book also needs a partner. It tells you what should be on the shelf, and the daily sales record book tells you what money should be in the drawer. Each one checks the other.

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